It was winter in South Africa but the political season was hot, searing with the tensions arising from the crumbling of apartheid. The year was 1990, and Nelson Mandela had been free for only a few months after 27 years in prison. Other anti-apartheid activists were similarly tasting freedom for the first time in decades, returning home from prison or from exile around the world.
On this day in June, I slowly made my way toward the Voortrekker Monument outside of Pretoria. It’s a symbol of apartheid and shrine to the Afrikaner people who created that peculiar system of racial oppression.